Sun-Thu, noon-11pm; Fri-Sat, noon-midnight
B, Q at Seventh Ave.; 2, 3 at Grand Army Plaza
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Of all the ice-cream success stories that have come out of New York, Brian Smith’s stands out. A sci-fi screenwriter quits his job to start a second career in ice cream, opening the first shop in New York to pasteurize its milk on site and one of the rare few, at the time it opened, to make its base from scratch. Now the Brooklyn upstart has a large following of dedicated loyalists, two more locations, and ships pints nationally. Here you’ll find the traditional, the experimental, and, in flavors like the Munchies—a pretzel-loaded ice cream infused with Ritz crackers, potato chips, pretzels, and mini M&Ms—a manageable dash of stoner genius. It’s where one is encouraged to stare long and hard at the menu and request an absurd amount of flavors. That added personal attention does make for a slower-moving line, so it’s better to commit for the sticky-handed long haul rather than opting for takeout. Named for a Walt Whitman poem, Ample Hills is an ode to a simpler time, before bacon-infused artisanal scoops, when, as the owners put it, “there were cows in Brooklyn.” Smith wants Ample Hills to be your neighborhood ice-cream shop, just with spunkier flavors and better chalk art.