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Owner Dung Trinh, who also owns next-door Bánh Mì 172 sandwich-takeout window, used to work front of house at Manhattan’s Indochine and La Esquina. Here, he does double duty as manager and menu guru, with a focus on Vietnamese family recipes. The sliced flank steak, brisket, and rice-noodle pho comes with a sharp hot sauce to flavor the broth. Crunchy vegetable rolls are thoroughly fried on the outside, with tofu, portobello, and other vegetables inside. Baby-back ribs are meaty but cling to the bone. The four-piece frog legs, or “mountain chicken” as the menu playfully calls them, are tempura-battered and served with a salt-and-pepper mix that becomes a dipping sauce with the squeeze of a lime. The curry (chicken or vegetable) has a nice, slightly sweet flavor, with sweet-potato hunks, pieces of taro, and a loaf of baguette for dipping. — Daniel Benjamin

Shaken’ beef, $15