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Angelo & Maxie’s web site opens with fittingly vulgar flash animation of a cow diving into a giant martini. No image better encapsulates the tradition of American steakhouse excess found at this Gramercy eatery. Typically oversized portions, like the 26 oz. blackened rib-eye steak, 38 oz. Porterhouse for two, and the $175 raw bar sampler, leave no room for false modesty. The food is up to par, but strays little from steakhouse conventions—accoutrements include the predictable wedge lettuce salad with bleu cheese dressing and the creamed spinach side. The stodgy décor is dominated by warm, if not slightly chintzy wood paneling and empty cigar boxes. — Gabriella Gershenson