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Angus McIndoe feels like a long-time Broadway institution in part because its namesake owner was the maitre d' at Joe Allen, a Restaurant Row perennial. The famous thespians he greeted there (including Nathan Lane, Matthew Broderick, Mel Brooks and Bob and Harvey Weinstein) not only encouraged him to open his own place but became his backers. On the crowded first floor, expect to rub elbows with the grand dames of the Great White Way. There's also a balcony without a view, and an expansive third floor reserved for A-listers. The staff is expert at moving people out in time for curtain. (They keep a list of running times of current plays). By 8:00 p.m. the place clears out. That's the time to enjoy a leisurely martini and chow down on some mostly fine if undistinguished dishes: sirloin steak, nicely charred on the outside or perhaps roasted duck. Steamed mussels in a white wine cream sauce, and enhanced by smoked bacon and peas, is the standout. Or opt for a large, juicy burger with crispy, medium-thick, and perfectly salted french fries. — Nancy Davidson

Famished celeb-searchers can indulge in a $75 porterhouse for two while waiting to spot stars.

Steamed mussels with white wine, cream, peas, and smoked bacon, $16-$28; hamburger, $14