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Anthony’s had been Sal Buglione’s dream for years: a restaurant named for and dedicated to his father, a mason from outside Naples. But when Anthony Buglione passed away unexpectedly, his restaurateur son nearly abandoned the plan, focusing instead on his involvement in the burgeoning Nick’s Pizza chainlet. Buglione’s friends encouraged him to persevere, and together they built the sort of homey southern-Italian restaurant and pizzeria he’d always imagined surprising his dad with. “We’d pull up, I’d say, ‘Hey, look, Anthony’s, let’s get a pizza,’ then I’d say, ‘This is for you.’ ” The family spirit is indeed pervasive. Buglione’s brother makes the mozzarella. His mother steps in on Sundays to make “the real ragù” (a.k.a. Sunday sauce). Pizza (whole pies only) is the province of pizzaiolo Bart Agozzino, a veteran of Naples’ legendary Trianon, whose father, Alfredo, built Anthony’s gas-fired brick oven (he’s had a hand in the ones at Lil’ Frankie’s and Blue Ribbon Bakery, too). Buglione's menu also includes pastas, chicken and veal, and his father’s beloved baked clams. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Cheese pizza, $16