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True to Dostoyevsky's spirit, Anyway Café's menu appreciates France almost as much as his homeland. Alongside pelmeni (Russia's answer to pierogi), stroganoff and entrées topped with caviar, are various crepes and sundry treats with crème fraiche. Black bread and homemade pâté notwithstanding, the star of the lineup is alcohol. Infused vodkas—including apricot, black currant, and litchi—can be ordered as shots or in carafes that come in big (16 oz.) or small (8 oz.) sizes. Imbibing liquor is one way to enhance the lackluster interior of the 2nd St. location. Another option is to come late in the day. As sunlight wanes, dingy yellow walls assume a golden hue, shabby leopard print cushions recede to patterned black, and decorative junk—like an old typewriter and a dilapidated movie projector—work as conversation pieces for diners supping on meaty dishes flavored by cognac and Cointreau. Two Brooklyn outposts offer more of the same inebriated fun. — Drew Pisarra

Anyway Café hosts a wide range of  musical acts every night, usually starting around 9 p.m.; visit the website for details

Note
There is a $30 minimum per person for parties making reservations on Friday or Saturday nights
 

Lamb shanks braised in rosemary and garlic sauce, $18; beef pelmeni in herb mushroom sauce, $12