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Going to Brighton Beach can feel like a journey to a foreign country; a meal at this Russian-French bistro underscores that sensation. English is spoken haltingly, if at all, by servers and clientele alike. And the restaurant feels like it belongs on a Parisian street, albeit a street in the City of Lights’ Little Moscow. Tin ceilings, floors covered in tiny black and white tiles, and tobacco-stained walls made of old wine and beer kegs form a bohemian backdrop for beveled mirrors, carved wood, and a large bar that’s thronged with regulars who float in late at night. And no wonder. Anyway stocks a host of international vodkas and homemade infusions, available in shots or in small or large carafes. The food falls into one of two categories: Russian faves, like red and black caviar and gravlax, and bistro standbys, like burgers and skirt steak. While the menu tilts toward grilled, sautéed, and marinated fresh seafood, it’s the cured fish that really stands out. Gravlax Maison, a thick cut of salmon wrapped in a paper-thin crêpe and drizzled with a creamy dill sauce is a gift from Russia, with love. — Andrew Sessa

Vodka is the thing here: homemade infusions come in standard flavors (raspberry and cranberry) and unlikely ones (horseradish and chile pepper). There’s also a house band every Friday and Saturday and other musical acts just about every night from 9 p.m. to midnight.

Crepes with salmon caviar, $14; gravlax maison and dill sauce; $9