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Occupying a corner spot on Park Slope’s main restaurant drag, AOC Bistro maintains a following for traditional French fare despite occasionally snooty service. Inside, low-hanging, oversize lamps create a warm, dimly lit jazz-club atmosphere. Bar tables line the narrow windows up front while roomy banquettes are nestled toward the back. The steak tartare is prepared the old-fashioned way, with two patties of beef served with an egg yolk, making a smart small entrée. Mussels and risotto dishes promise equally hearty potions. The highlight of the prix fixe brunch is "feuilles de brique," an inspired savory pastry creation of ham, cheese, ratatouille, and a poached egg. Outside, sturdy wooden tables provide abundant alfresco seating in summer, ideal for the stroller set. — Michael Kruse

Beef tartar, $18.50; Risotto de la Mer, $22