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With its soaring ceilings, striated wood, and squarish white chairs, Aperitivo feels a bit like a West Elm outlet with food. Despite its link to the Patsy’s-Dean’s-Angelo’s pizza empire, pies here fall short. Four lush cheeses that come standard on a dense, thin crust don’t make up for tired meat and veg toppings at $2.75 a pop; a small pizza with four basic add-ons can total $24. The rest of the menu is an afterthought, with lackluster salads, lifeless pastas, and a morose little cheese plate. “Signature” pizzas fare better, like the simple, beautifully balanced “white pie” of fig compote, blue cheese, and prosciutto. A smart selection of wines by the glass is a highlight, too; you’ll do best by settling into a high chair at one of the small bar tables and mellowing out with a glass of vino and a bowl of marinated olives. — Michael Kaminer

Sweet potato “crostini,” $7.95; “white pie,” $17