Mon-Fri, 11:45am-9pm; Sat, 5pm-10pm; Sun, closed
B, D, F, M at 42nd St.-Bryant Park; 7 at Fifth Ave.
American Express, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa
With its soaring ceiling, brass chandeliers, and oversized vintage wine posters, Appetito’s “bigger is better” philosophy virtually overwhelms patrons from every angle, including its Northern Italian menu. Enormous bowls of minestrone and stracciatella are mere previews of the heaping entrées to come. Unfortunately, big, robust flavors don’t always accompany overfull plates. Specialty dishes like gnocchi can be drenched in a bland pesto, while pollo Bolognese can get somewhat smothered by a mozzarella and white-wine sauce. Power-lunching execs may be too busy schmoozing clients to object. As for the evening crowd, the quieted dining room facilitates quieter conversations.Recommended Dishes