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Other than the change from a C to a K, how is this casual extension of the Aquavit brand different from the AQ Café that resided at Scandinavia House? For one thing, according to Aquavit’s Håkan Swahn, the Columbus Circle spot was designed specifically to house the café (unlike the former museum-concession premises, now occupied by Smörgås Chef). For another, the focus has shifted to the fresh breads and pastries baked at a commissary kitchen in Long Island City, like cinnamon buns with cardamom and almonds and the onion bialys fashioned into sandwiches of smoked salmon and herbed cream cheese. But with gentle prices and continuous service from 7 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., this spot will soon, we imagine, resume its predecessor’s role as a neighborhood pit stop for quick Nordic breakfasts and lunches, like Swedish pancakes, tomato soup with Gouda and Västerbotten cheese, herring platters, and the iconic Swedish meatballs. — Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite

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