Sure, the novelty of the semi-secret location at the end of a formerly closed-off office-building lobby is part of the appeal. And so is the nifty renovation of what used to be glass-enclosed ad-display alcoves into mahogany-paneled seating cubbies with drop-down tables. But none of that trumps Roger Gural’s flaky croissants, pear-vanilla baguettes, and whiskey-pecan babka. The lunchtime-only pizza made from baguette dough is pretty amazing, too. And bonus points for a stubborn, old-fashioned determination to keep production low and turnover high, which is why you won’t find Gural’s handiwork at your local coffee bar, and why everything’s always exceedingly fresh.