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Count on dizzyingly multicultural Astoria for a diversity of cuisines showcasing undiluted old-country flavors—or, as the critics say, authentic chow. On this score, Arcos delivers. Its Portuguese-born owner and its chef serve the rustic, hearty, seafood-centric fare of their rugged Iberian homeland. Stews and fried dishes dominate the menu and hold the greatest culinary reward: Grilled and fried squid make doubly pleasant starters, and a tasty bacalhau codfish fritter isn’t much harmed by the odd addition of feta cheese and cucumber on the side. Satisfying, ample entrees include chewy but flavorful pork and clam stew; picadinho, a sautéed pork and shrimp concoction; and fried seafood. Chiplike potato rounds are a tastier, if oilier, side than white rice. The wine list focuses on house-mixed sangrias and typically light Portuguese bottlings. While Arcos’s underdecorated dining room is enhanced by a terra-cotta tile floor and a front wall that opens onto the buzzy Broadway sidewalk, the boxy space is not improved by a soundtrack of syrupy Portuguese pop. But that’s authentic, too. — Karen Tina Harrison

Fried squid, $12.95; pork and clam stew, $16; picadinho, $16; fried mixed seafood, $16