32 W. 46th St.
This venue is closed.
Dubbed Little Brazil, West 46th Street seems an inauspicious setting for a restaurant devoted to that nation’s neighbor and bitter soccer rival, Argentina. Still, Argentine Pavillion the city’s oldest Argentine restaurant, was around before Little Brazil. Operating since 1976, it harkens back to an even older, rustic Argentina of vast plains and gaucho lore. Wall hangings made of animal hair depict archetypal symbols—a mounted cowboy with a lasso, an old man sipping traditional mate from a gourd—and Spanish folksy songs play in the background. By the narrow entry, steaks sizzle on a circular, open grill visible from the street. Shelves of wine bottles and a tiny bar form an archway that leads to the sparse, sizeable dining room, dotted with tourists and foreigners of all sorts. The menu, lined in plastic, covers Argentine standards like grilled meats, empanadas and flan. Their execution is uneven but juicy filet mignon strips in a light, sweet marsala wine sauce are a notable exception, and steaks make a generally satisfying and safe bet.