If cheese is a religion, this is its bustling, Balthazar-gone-midtown house of worship. After an olfactory assault at the door, where you're hit with the pungent aroma of Muenster, Taleggio, and 200 other varieties aging gracefully in the boutique cheese cave, indulge in full-fromage festivities from appetizer (gougères) to dessert (a splendid tarte Tatin with a cheddar cheese crust). If you manage to resist four different fondues, there's a full menu of bistro classics like boudin blanc. If not, feed your Appenzeller addiction at the retail cheese counter, which also carries crusty loaves of Amy's Bakery and Balthazar Bakery bread. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
Note
Entrance is on 32nd St. between Park Ave. and Madison Ave.
Brunch Sat.—Sun., 10:30 a.m.—4:45 p.m.
Prix-Fixe Menu lunch, $24.07; dinner, $35; brunch,$24.07
Recommended Dishes
Assorted cheese fondues, $24 or $40; chocolate fondue, $24.50
I ate at Artisanal years ago and enjoyed myself. Last night I took friends from Canada. It was packed on a rainy Monday, so we waited at a bar area table. Twice waiters confused our table with the one next to us. When our table was ready, we discovered our bar tab couldn't go on our dinner bill. In giving the specials our waiter didnÂ’t say the fish special included chorizo. My friend, who ordered it, doesnÂ’t eat pork. Our waiter (insincerely) apologized, but we were almost done when her new dish arrived. I had mushroom risotto with butternut squash, and truffle essence. Some squash was undercooked and unpleasantly crunchy. At $19.50 it should have been perfect. Artisanal claims to serve seasonal food, but butternut squash is a fall vegetable. For dessert we had chocolate fondue. When we mentioned a nut allergy, our waiter went to check ingredients, informing us the madeleines were bought in, not homemade.
Maybe chef Brennan is preoccupied with his new downtown eatery, or is more concerned with maintaining his Michelin stars at Picholine, but that's no excuse for letting quality slip at Artisanal.
First I felt compelled to send back their tasteless and watery "blend fondue"; then came the "fontina, garlic and herbs", which tasted even worse... I had no choice but to send it back again and go home hungry.
The waitress was super nice and kindly apologized...