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If cheese is a religion, this is its bustling, Balthazar-gone-midtown house of worship. After an olfactory assault at the door, where you're hit with the pungent aroma of Muenster, Taleggio, and 100 other varieties aging gracefully in the boutique cheese cave, indulge in full-fromage festivities from appetizer (gougères) to dessert (a splendid tarte Tatin with a cheddar cheese crust). If you manage to resist four different fondues, there's a full menu of bistro classics like boudin blanc. If not, feed your Appenzeller addiction at the retail cheese counter, which also carries crusty loaves of Amy's Bakery and Balthazar Bakery bread. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Entrance is on 32nd St. between Park Ave. and Madison Ave.

Brunch
Sat—Sun, 10:30am—4:30pm

Prix-Fixe Menu
lunch, $24.07; dinner, $35; brunch,$24.07

Assorted cheese fondues, $35 or $50; chocolate fondue, $24.50

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Best of New York Awards

• Best Cheese Bits (2002)
• Best Grilled Cheese (2002)

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• Fondue Season at Little Giant, The Waverly Inn, Artisanal, and More (2/5/07)
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Recipes at Artisanal

• Roast Duck à l'Orange (2002)
• Salt-Crusted Pheasant (2000)