Atera

The rating scale of 0 to 100 reflects our editors’ appraisals of all the tangible and intangible factors that make a restaurant or bar great — or terrible — regardless of price.

89 Impressive

El Bulli and Mugaritz–trained chef Ronny Emborg has introduced an ingredient-focused approach to the boundary-pushing tasting room.

77 Worth St., New York, NY, 10013

212-226-1444

http://www.ateranyc.com

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The lowdown

The much-praised, star-bedecked Danish chef Ronny Emborg is more of an overt classicist than his talented, forager-loving predecessor, Matthew Lightner, who had a fondness for plating dinner on river pebbles or beds of moss. Emborg’s speciality is what he calls “sensory” dining, and although it will cost you a small fortune to get a taste of this delicate, artful brand of cooking ($285 the last time we checked), the deft combinations of elemental smells and flavors (birch bark, juniper, a whiff of wood smoke), impeccable ingredients, and first-class continental technique make this discreet, and in many ways, now-seminal Tribeca restaurant one of the best big-money tasting extravaganzas in town.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized