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What seems at first like yet another copycat Italian outpost, and a pricey one at that, is actually pleasantly understated, with yachtlike wood finishes, a proud host on the floor, and real finesse in the kitchen. Four courses, in the traditional Italian mode, can quickly add up, but garlicky mussels in pesto, half an order of clam-and-tomato-tossed scialatielli noodles, and a glass of red wine make pretheater sense. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Daily, noon—7 p.m., three courses, $30