Sun-Thu, 10:30am-9pm; Fri, 10:30am-4pm; Sat, closed
C, E at 50th St.
Discover, MasterCard, Visa
42nd St. to 58th St., Broadway to West Side Hwy.
In the hierarchy of most-feared food figures, Ezra Cohen falls somewhere between the Soup Nazi and Alessandro, the retired sandwich maestro of Melampo Imported Foods. That reputation might not be deserved, but the one for Mr. Cohen's falafel certainly is. His platters teem with delectable Middle Eastern salads and spreads, and his soups, a lesser-known but equally precious commodity, have a devoted fan club.