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Part of the charm of many bánh mì shops, purveyors of the wondrous Vietnamese sandwich that packs pork and pickled vegetables into a crunchy baguette, comes from their dual identities. Bánh Mì  Saigon (on Mott Street) is tucked into the back of a jewelry store; Nha Sach Khai Tri (on Canal) sells both cell phones and hoagies. By contrast, Ba Xuyên has a solitary purpose: The all-white box of a place—with a smattering of potted trees and four tables—sells only food, mainly bánh mì that blow away most of the competition. Of course, picking the best bánh mì can feel like choosing a favorite child. Suffice it to say that this place gets the elements exactly right: the thin, incredibly crunchy crust; the rich and salty pork products (from meatballs to pâté to spongy cold cuts), and the bracingly sweet-tart shredded pickled daikon and carrots with cilantro liberally applied. Add a squirt of sweet chili sauce, a cooling spear of cucumber, and a smear of what tastes like a cross between mayo and garlic butter, and you have a kingly bánh mì for Kings County. — JJ Goode

Banh mi with meatballs, $3.50; banh mi with grilled pork, $3.50; banh mi with pate and cold cuts, $3.50; avocado milkshake, $2.50