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It’s a gamble to open an Indian restaurant where another has just closed, but Bagicha is betting on the talents of chef Simon Gomes, formerly of Amma, and a sophisticated design that hints at its name’s meaning: “garden.” In the eight-table atrium, sconces full of flower petals dangle from the greenhouselike pointed glass ceiling. Tree stumps mounted along the walls, fake bamboo plants, and an eye-catching oval chandelier, whose opaque panels are shaped like lotus leaves, underscore the effect. The food is equally evocative. Gomes finds inspiration from Kashmir to Cochin and turns out exciting dishes like tili shrimp balchao, a trio of jumbo shrimp covered in sesame seeds that rests on an extremely spicy tomato and red chili paste. For Malabar salmon tikka, he takes a similar tomato base and adds fried okra and onions to jazz up the creamy salmon fillet. More familiar are the supple clay-oven-roasted chicken tikka masala and assorted curries and kebabs. — Kate Appleton

A much larger upstairs dining room is available for private functions.

Malabar salmon tikka, $18.95, chicken makhni, $14.95, tili shrimp balchao, $10.95