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Entering this Astoria storefront, visitors squeeze past a utilitarian glass counter full of baklava to be seated in a pumpkin-toned room decorated with maps of Afghanistan and assorted Eastern tapestries, which give the shoe-box interior an elegant, authentic flair. Most guests are Afghani families, clearly relishing the chance to linger over their native foods—and the cuisine bears the same loving imprint as the ambiance. Flat triangular fried turnover appetizers are irresistible, surprisingly light and crisp, whether filled with sharp scallions, spiced ground meats, mashed potatoes or a sweet and surprising pumpkin purée. The meats of the specialty kebabs, served slightly charred on the outside, moist and flavorful inside, are matched in quality by the petite marinated lamb chops, served with a heaping plate of savory yellow rice and toasted flat bread. The kofta meatballs, in a starchy tomato onion sauce, suffer by contrast, but the sabzi, a rich spinach puréed with onions and ground lamb, is a luscious bow to vegetables sides. The strong Afghan tea, a cardamom-infused green, is both a fitting accompaniment and finale to the meal. — Jessica Branch

Bolanee kadu, $4; combo kebab, $9; sabzi, $5