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Schiller's may be Keith McNally's newest nightlife nexus, but Balthazar is his masterpiece, an evocation of a Paris brasserie that outglows anything within Brie-tossing distance of the Seine. Yet for all its visual impact and despite McNally's uncanny skill at creating a place that remains hot longer than most of its patrons' relationships, Balthazar's tender braised short ribs, shepherd's pie made with duck or grilled dorade with herb sauce and romesco sauce is exactly the kind of brasserie fare you would like to remember having had the last time you strolled the Boulevard St-Germain. The only smudge in this postcard is that every American not in Paris seems to want to dine here, meaning tables have been planted everywhere—some so close to the front door that those seated there will get coat-smacked silly. In that case, dash into Balthazar's superb bakery, grab a baguette, and make do with a walk along the Hudson. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Sat.—Sun., 9 a.m.—4 p.m.

Balthazar salad, $16; steak tartare, $18; warm goat cheese and caramelized onion Tart, $15; sautéed skate, $29; bouillabaisse (Friday only), $39; braised short ribs (Saturday only), $38

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Best of New York Awards

• Best Late-Night Dining (2004)
• Best French Pastries (2002)

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