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Malaysian food is one of a dozen Eastern cuisines offered up on a 7 train pilgrimage to Flushing’s Chinatown. For diners hard-pressed to choose, the fusion fare of the multi-ethnic coastal country offers a cook’s tour of Southeast Asia. Banana Leaf’s vast menu offers encounters with rich Thai-like rich coconut curries, minty Vietnamese-style salads, Indonesian stewed beef, and Cantonese seafood and noodle dishes. Purely Malaysian recipes exist, too, such as chow kueh teow, stir-fried noodles resembling an earthier pad Thai; curry mee with young tau foo, lemongrass and curry soup containing sprouts-stuffed tofu; Penang rojak, a strangely compelling amalgamation of squid, jícama, apple, peanuts, and fish paste; and sarang burong, seafood steamed Cantonese-style in a toothsome fried taro nest. Ordering is simplified by luridly inked menu photos and English-competent servers. The owners have made a successful attempt at making the interior hospitable, with bamboo-printed fabric walls and gentle lighting, especially in the mellower back area. And Banana Leaf’s lowdown tabs ensure that a seven-course tasting menu for two costs no more than a couple rounds of lychee martinis at the other end of the No. 7. — Karen Tina Harrison

Chow kueh teow, $5.95; curry mee with yong tau foo, $5.95; seafood salad, $8.95; sarang burong, $12.95