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Although the décor at this West Village hangout—yellow walls, red vinyl banquettes, copper-topped café tables and rows of imported bottles of mineral water—indicates an appealing, albeit cookie-cutter French bistro, the menu contains some type-defying items. In addition to the requisite but tasty moules and steak frites, comforting North African dishes—like grilled, veggie-packed couscous, or an aromatic chicken tagine—dare to mix it up. But if you’re looking to stick to more predictable fare, sink your teeth into an expertly prepared hamburger—generic as it may be, it has acquired a fan club of its own. — Gabriella Gershenson