Nearby Subway Stops
R at Prospect Ave.; R at 25th St.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
- Full Bar
This venue is closed.
The whiff of hickory smoke you catch as you head inside acts as a welcoming appetite stimulant. The room is a Brooklyn version of the traditional 'cue joint's straight-up style, as it's simply divided between a bar and a single row of bare tables, with just a few pig knickknacks as decoration. The meat comes out on paper plates and you're issued pre-wrapped plastic utensils, with paper napkins and moist towelettes for the aftermath. The pulled pork is perfectly respectable, with just a wisp of smokiness and a good balance of tenderness and chewiness. A few squirts of sauce from the pair of squeeze bottles on your table can only improve matters. The owner's concoction balances heat with sweetness, while the eastern North Carolina-style sauce zings with vinegar and hot pepper. The baby back ribs lag behind. The crust, by rights the best part of baby backs, lacks assertive flavor and there’s little to no discernable rosy smoke ring in the meat. But this isn't a pork-only establishment. Chicken, that other white meat, has a near caramel-like exterior. If you're after something Texan, order a Lone Star beer and the hickory-smoked beef brisket.Extra
There's an impressive bourbon selection here; branch out from Jim Beam and try some Old Rip Van Winkle or Elijah Craig.Recommended Dishes
Smoked sausage platter, $9.25; half chicken, $11.50
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