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Tapas can mean nearly anything these days, but pintxos (tastings served in the Basque region of Spain) are a little more specific. Owner Frederick E. Twomey, who first took on European snacks at Bar Veloce next door, named his wine bar for a men’s culinary club in San Sebastian, then veiled the interior with a rippled glass facade. The long space holds a poured concrete bar fronted by dark wood-grained stools and backed by shelves of wine while an eating counter—for that leg of Serrano ham perhaps—runs along one Moroccan-tiled wall. A blend of Iberian and American pop ignites the mood for local friends and dates, as well as off-duty restaurant professionals downing shots of almond gazpacho in place of Jagermeister. Surprising matches characterize the menu of tiny bites: rich, slightly charred pork caramelized with juniper sugar and creamy garrotxa cheese paired with guava-like membrillo paste. The regional Spanish reds, whites and sherries are equally tantalizing, among them intense tempranillos, a vivaciously fruity, sharp Martinsancho verdejo, and strawberry sangria, fresh with mint and cardamom. — Karen Hudes

A vintage Stock Car pinball machine in back entertains with free games and plenty of ding.

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• Cheap Eats Guide 2006 (8/7/06)