F at Seventh Ave.; F, M, R at Fourth Ave.-9th St.
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It wouldn’t go with the atmospheric glass-and-oxidized-tin design, but if they wanted to, the owners of Brooklyn’s Bar Toto could hang one of those signs you see outside 14th Street discount stores: EVERYTHING $14 AND UNDER. After a two-year try at running the space as the Italian restaurant Luce, partners Peter Sclafani and Kristen Hallett have rejiggered it into more of an enoteca, revised the menu, and slashed the prices. Judging by the early-evening swarm of young families one recent night, it’s working. Though every low-budget restaurateur these days seems to worship at the altar of the three P’s—pizza, pasta, and panini—Toto does them better than most. A nicely pressed tuna panino with provolone gets a righteous kick from a handful of hot peppers; the unusual grilled pizza is made with great toppings and fresh mozzarella, even if the crust is a little too soft; and penne with peas and prosciutto in a creamy tomato sauce hits the spot. The all-Italian wine list, decent beer lineup, and extensive selection of amaros and grappas make Toto a reliable watering hole, too, but barflies, take note: This is prime Park Slope toddler territory.Brunch
Sat.–Sun., 11 a.m.–4 p.m.Recommended Dishes
Sun-Thu, 11am-midnight; Fri-Sat, 11am-1am