At the first sign of spring the garage doors roll up, the sun worshippers claim their sidewalk tables, and the rosé begins to flow. The loud, rackety space is urban industrial, but the vibe is pure Cal-Med, and so is the food. Chef-partner Jonathan Waxman was a pioneer of so-called California cuisine, the movement that begat today’s local-and-seasonal craze. Examine restaurant menus around town and you’ll see his influence everywhere: the subtly distinctive pastas, the market-driven salads, the open kitchens, and wood-fired grills (and especially the chickens you see charring on them). Waxman has consulted far and wide, but this is his spiritual-culinary home.