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Barbuto occupies a large, airy space with curving, garage-style doors, which open up to allow café tables to spill onto the sidewalk. With the doors closed, however, the room has a bare-bones, utilitarian feel, enhanced by café chairs, white-painted brick walls, and an open kitchen, where chef Jonathan Waxman himself can be seen wandering to and fro like a captain on his bridge, muttering commands, popping tasty morsels into his mouth, and tending to the wood-burning brick oven, which flames away in a fashionably rustic manner, against one wall. The small, aggressively seasonal menu (it changes nearly every day) also has a bare-bones, utilitarian feel, although almost everything on it tastes good. The spaghetti alla chitarra with eggs, Parmigiano-Reggiano and guanciale, is a stand-out. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Wild chicory, $7; squid salad, $9; bacalao, $8; bucatini, $14; risotto, $16; roast chicken, $17; skate, $18; veal sweetbreads, $18; oven-baked salmon, $19; rib eye, $19; lemon torte, $8

Related Stories

New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (4/12/03)

Best of New York Awards

• Best New Italian Restaurant (2005)

Featured In

• Places to Try Affogato (8/11/08)
• Where to Get a Between-Purchases Bite in the West Village (12/11/06)
• Cheap Eats Guide 2006 (8/7/06)
• 101 Best New York Restaurants for 2006 (1/9/06)
• Eat a Purple Cow: 21 Cool Foods (7/4/05)

Recipes at Barbuto

• Multicolored Pear-Tomato Salad With Minced-Carrot Vinaigrette (2005)
• Sweet Maine Shrimp With Fennel and Cremini Mushrooms (2005)