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At this coventure between Stephen Hanson (Ruby Foo, Fiamma, and others) and Eric Ripert (the seafood genius at Le Bernardin), the Hanson-esque theatrical touches are apparent as soon as you walk through the door of the room, which is built for volume and is as big as an industrial cow barn. Predictably, the menu is cluttered with lots of paellas and tapas dishes, and it’s interspersed with improvised seafood fusion specialties (New York–style seared tuna in sherry vinegar, very un-Mediterranean swordfish layered with chorizo and tomato). The tapas are passable though not as various or refined as anything you’d find in a serious New York tapas parlor. The experiments are more pronounced among the entrées, with mixed results. The best seafood item is the swordfish, which is very fresh and goes nicely with its blanket of baked tomatoes and chorizo. For a Spanish restaurant, there is a strange dearth of pork dishes on the menu (except for a good cubano sandwich served at lunch), but hefty eaters can make do with an excellent braised oxtail piled on a mound of mashed potatoes laced with apples. Other attempts at rustic heartiness are less successful. Everything at Barça 18 is designed to facilitate a festive, loose party mood. — Adam Platt

Extra

The specialty cocktails aren't very special, but the wine list, comprising many Spanish bottle, is curiously measured and well priced.

Recommended Dishes

Salt-cod fritters, $8; paella negra, $24; churros, $8

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (11/28/05)