Sun, 10am-11:30pm; Mon-Thu, 6pm-11:30pm; Fri, 6pm-12:30am; Sat, 10am-12:30am
6 at Spring St.; J, M, Z at Bowery
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
The quirky little bistro Barmarché picks up the quickening pulse of this neighborhood just east of Soho. This patchwork of country furniture, whimsical art, and plastic-cube-enclosed crystal chandeliers took a while to settle down. But they manage somehow to dispense perfect shrimp in a super-creamy killer risotto from the pocket-size kitchen. The house burger is a juicy triumph, though our foursome would prefer toasted rather than candied walnuts in the pear-and-endive salad with Danish blue cheese. I don't often encounter a seviche too acidy for me, but tonight's red snapper in mango-citrus broth has overwhelming pucker. The lush caramelized-onion-olive-caper pizzetta-of-the-day sits on a toughened crust. And the sugar churros to dip into caramel sauce is a finale to share. The sound system escalates at about ten—night-is-beginning sounds for the youngish crowd.