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The quirky little bistro Barmarché picks up the quickening pulse of this neighborhood just east of Soho. This patchwork of country furniture, whimsical art, and plastic-cube-enclosed crystal chandeliers took a while to settle down. But they manage somehow to dispense perfect shrimp in a super-creamy killer risotto from the pocket-size kitchen. The house burger is a juicy triumph. A duck-confit-and-frisée salad tumbled with banana may sound bizarre, but it tastes just right. There's just enough vinaigrette tang to offset the sweetness of goat-cheese brûlée with roasted beets and blueberries, though our foursome would prefer toasted rather than candied walnuts in the pear-and-frisée salad with Danish blue cheese. I don't often encounter a seviche too acidy for me, but tonight's red snapper in mango-citrus broth has overwhelming pucker. The lush caramelized-onion-olive-caper pizzetta-of-the-day sits on a toughened crust. And the sugar churros to dip into caramel sauce is a finale to share. The sound system escalates at about ten—night-is-beginning sounds for the youngish crowd. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Gael Greene's Full Review (5/22/06)