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210 Seventh Ave.,
Brooklyn, NY 11215
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2, 3 at Grand Army Plaza; F at Seventh Ave.
Recommended
This venue is closed.
Restaurateur Spencer Rothschild (Rain, Calle Ocho, BLT Prime) has created a candy-colored Mexican favorite for Park Slopers, who descended on the place immediately after its opening in 2008. The one-room spot’s success is centered on the excellent food by chef-partner and Patria alum Adrian Leon. For starters, guacamole, a good measure of a cantina’s worth, is creamy, tangy, and arrives accompanied by steaming-hot fresh corn tortillas. The chicken enchilada deserves similar praise, with generous portions of luscious breast meat and a tangy red sauce enhanced with smoked chipotle chiles. There are only a few flaws, like the Puebla pork tenderloin, smothered in spicy peanut gravy but overcooked to dryness. Cocktails, however, earn nothing but the respect that’s given to them; a Perfecto Nestorindo of blue agave with chile piquin and fresh tamarind and pineapple juices, served in a glass rimmed with house-made chile salt, is exactly want you want while people-watching on a hot day under the marquee tent outside.
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