Profile

Replaying the successful formula behind his pair of Indigo Indian Bistros — understated design for the room, bold flavors on the plate — Anil Kumar has made Basera one of the more appealing stops on the Ninth Avenue restaurant trail. Though its location might appeal to theater hordes, moderate prices and careful cooking make it very much a neighborhood restaurant. With most of the crew here hailing from Delhi or Punjab, the menu focuses on Northern Indian specialties, punctuated by southern dishes like peppery Chettinad chicken. A Tandoori mixed grill is a highlight, with Jurassic-scale shrimp and moist meats. “Basera” means “shelter” in Hindi, an apt description for this place. Low lighting, mosaic-effect wall sconces, and ceiling fans lend a stylishly languid vibe; front tables provide a perfect perch for surveying Ninth Avenue’s passing parade. — Michael Kaminer

Chicken sorba, $4; Chettinad chicken, $12.95; mix grill, $20