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The greatest hits of Indian cuisine are served at this upscale, pan-Indian brasserie tucked into the base of a midtown office tower. The kitchen cooks up authentic regional specialties, like Kadai Gosht, spicy lamb cooked with tomatoes, and a sweet Goan fish curry. Dishes more familiar to western palates—chicken tikka masala and tandoori fare—also make appearances. High prices are mostly justified by confident spicing and ornate presentation, but the kitchen falters on some details. Some dishes are far too oily, and sauces overwhelm the delicate flavors of the main ingredients in others. While naan comes from the tandoor piping hot and light as air, the saffron pulao, a fairly simple rice dish, is bland and dry. Appetizers and the vegetarian menu don’t offer many surprises. Skip the samosas and palak paneer in favor of a tender tandoori quail starter with a bright smoky flavor, or baghare baigan, succulent baby eggplants in a coconut-sesame sauce. Dated and slightly frayed furnishings reminiscent of a corporate dining room aren’t much of a draw, though spot-lit temple reliefs on the walls and a bay window looking out on a patio brighten things up a bit. Not that anyone notices; on weekdays, it’s the all-you-can-eat buffet that attracts the restaurant’s workaday clientele. — Simon Spelling

At $15.95, the buffet is a reasonably-priced way to try some of the better dishes off the dinner menu.

Goan fish curry, $22; tandoori quails, $9.95