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The Bean markets a better grade of java from Dallis Bros., the venerable Ozone Park roaster that also supplies Babbo and Aquavit. Its two spiffy coffee shops spaced a few blocks apart house a dizzying selection of 23 estate-grown blends (including a super-dark roast called Burnt Ember, catering to fans of that West Coast monolith, no doubt) that are fastidiously ground and French-pressed to order. Wisely resisting the urge to put all its beans in one filter basket, The Bean also serves 23 different loose-leaf teas, gelato, hefty panini and wrap sandwiches. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

The Bean gives discounts to students and senior citizens.