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A true diner, one with a menu like a phone book, doors that are always open, and mints by the register, is increasingly hard to find in New York. But the Bel Aire Diner in Astoria, with hints of neon inside recall the kind of places that are still thriving outside the city limits. Though the atmosphere is right on the money, the diner standards are a bit uneven. Items from the fryer, such as the remarkably light calamari and crisp fries, fare well, but sandwiches are less successful; the burger sits too long on the grill, and a turkey club is dry. The place has its own nice touches, however, like the dishes of sliced beets and chickpeas with onions that are brought to the table before you order. — Laura Longhine

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Fried calamari, $6.50-$12.95