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This spot from the Anella, Calyer, and St. Vitus crew has a high-end-thrift-store aesthetic with teal benches, silver bulbs, and a tile bar that also serves as an oyster reserve. In addition to two daily varieties of oysters, openers include an almost milky curried eggplant topped with fried chickpeas and warm wedges of house-made naan. Relatively light small plates leave room for entrées like an outstanding clam linguine that comes with moist, buttery blocks of garlic bread. A plate of Thai-style oxtail peppered with peanuts, basil, fried onions, and scorching chili makes for a challenging but deliciously fatty selection of meat that absolutely must be eaten by hand. One caveat: Bellwether’s extremely casual service and pop soundtrack don’t quite match the more serious menu. — Patrick Coffee

Clam linguine, $16