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It may sound braggadocious, but nobody really challenges the Benfaremo family for the crown as the king of lemon and every other kind of Italian ice in the entire city, let alone Corona. They’ve been making Italian-style ices from fruit and other fresh ingredients since the 1940s, and continue to offer intensely flavored and authentic ones, something like what the original immigrants made to resemble the granitas of home. In addition to the essential lemon ice, the shop is known for a peanut-speckled peanut butter, a spicy licorice, sweet cantaloupe, and up to 40 other flavors, all containing proof of their origins—smashed bits of seeds, leaves, nuts and crushed berries. The bare-bones store isn’t known for friendliness, playful banter or smiling service, and there are no free tastes, seats or napkins on hand. The family also steadfastly refuses to allow the staff to mix flavors together in the same cup, but strolling the streets of Italian Corona—not to mention the neighboring bocce court—with a Lemon Ice King cup is reward enough for most. — Jack Robertiello

Peanut butter ice, $1.50-$3; cantaloupe ice, $1.50-$3