Benno

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87 Very Good

Former Per Se and Lincoln chef Jonathan Benno finds his own culinary voice at his eponymous restaurant at the Evelyn Hotel.

7 E. 27th St., New York, NY, 10016

212-451-9557

https://www.bennorestaurant.com/

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The lowdown

There’s a bakery and pastry concept at this new Jonathan Benno hotel operation in NoMad, and a casual taverna serving the usual jumble of familiar Italian comfort classics, but if you want to taste the vanishing pleasures of the old gourmet world in which the former Per Se veteran learned his trade, this discreet eponymous restaurant is the place to be. Pay special attention to old locally sourced favorites like sea bass and roast duck, and to the excellent housemade pastas and dumplings, several of which (the agnolotti, the boat shaped “casconcelli”) are worth the fairly steep price of admission.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

Insider Tips Having a dinner party? There’s a 24-seat private room. The dining room is prix fixe only, but you can order à la carte at the bar.

Recommended DishesCoddled egg, tête de veau and/or any of the pastas, black sea bass or Rohan duck, babka

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized