This venue is closed.
A bleary-eyed slog through New York’s all-night eateries often reveals that the later the hour, the grimmer the grub. Yet here’s an exception: a 24/7 Turkish kebab joint that tosses that maxim out the window like a day-old pita. At dawn, at dusk, or after dark, a greedy line snakes up to the counter for lamb or chicken threaded on skewers and then cooled with mint-infused yogurt. But rather than restrict yourself to one meze appetizeródo as the Turks do and graze with gusto on a combo platter of plump grape leaves, liberally spiced bulgur wheat, and earthy patlican (fried eggplant in a thick tomato-and-pepper sauce). The surroundings are about as utilitarian as you can get: Think institution-orange plastic trays and bright lights overhead. Cab-choked Houston Street is framed by the large picture windows, while the bandana-sporting Turks manning the grill are as chummy as they’re unflappable. Bartenders like this place too. When it’s last call on the Lower East Side, no one complains.Recommended Dishes
Doner kebab, $12; shish kebab, $12; patlican eggplant, $5; dolma, $5