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A bleary-eyed slog through New York’s all-night eateries often reveals that the later the hour, the grimmer the grub. Yet here’s an exception: a 24/7 Turkish kebab joint that tosses that maxim out the window like a day-old pita. At dawn, at dusk, or after dark, a greedy line snakes up to the counter for lamb or chicken threaded on skewers and then cooled with mint-infused yogurt. But rather than restrict yourself to one meze appetizer—do as the Turks do and graze with gusto on a combo platter of plump grape leaves, liberally spiced bulgur wheat, and earthy patlican (fried eggplant in a thick tomato-and-pepper sauce). The surroundings are about as utilitarian as you can get: Think institution-orange plastic trays and bright lights overhead. Cab-choked Houston Street is framed by the large picture windows, while the bandana-sporting Turks manning the grill are as chummy as they’re unflappable. Bartenders like this place too. When it’s last call on the Lower East Side, no one complains. — AnneLise Sorensen

Doner kebab, $6; shish kebab, $6; patlican eggplant, $5; dolma, $5