Bessou, which means something like “second home” in Japanese, is the rare restaurant that’s as stylish as it is warm and welcoming. The music is contemporary and hip but played softly; there’s never a risk that conversations will turn to din. The dining room is mostly blond wood and white paint, with a single brick wall, stocked shelves that look like they could be at a mountain inn, and some subdued art on the wall. The design calls your attention to the colorful plates of regularly changing, contemporary Japanese home cooking rolling out of the kitchen: shiso leaves wrapped around miso accented with peanut; meat salads of Japanese-style beef carpaccio or thinly sliced pork belly. The food is not strictly Japanese but influenced by the owner’s childhood in New York, evident in dishes like a fried cauliflower and chicken karaage seasoned with Moroccan spices and served with shisho tzatziki. More traditional is the Inaniwa udon, a regional variation (served hot or cold) of thin, silky noodles, a sweet but subtle broth, and a heap of tempura. Desserts, though limited, are a highlight. There will be ice cream, in flavors like miso-caramel and a great green-tea variation.