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Jason Denton of 'ino and 'inoteca brings a dose of eclectic European cuisine to this 60-seat, dimly lit restaurant, his first in Brooklyn. The eccentric menu offers several whole animals (heads and tails included), which change throughout the week. Of the more permanent edibles, the majority are not only well thought out, but quite hearty. Each of the ten variations of "market toast," with charred bread is worth showing up for, and several could be consumed as a complete meal. The cheese selection, mostly from Vermont (the one West Coast exception being the Smokey Blue), is a curd-lover's dream, and worth ordering as a complete set, of course, accompanied by a carafe of wine. The majority of the menu encourages sharing, with plates ranging from $6 for a set of 3 lightly fried squash and ricotta fritters to $14 for a heaping bowl of spaghetti with pork-belly meatballs. — Zach Lindner

Market toast, $12; suppli, $6; squash fritters, $6