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Once you get past the oxymoronic concept, you have to admit there’s something oddly appealing about the idea of vegan sushi—especially if you happen to be among the growing ranks of those who abstain from eating animals and animal products, a life choice that typically limits sushi-bar options to things like burdock and kabocha rolls. For this demographic, Beyond Sushi is a godsend. But even omnivores can relish the occasional fish-free foray into such colorful, creatively constructed novelties as the Spicy Mang, a crunchy sliced cylinder of avocado, mango, cucumber, and julienned vegetables rolled up in purple-hued black rice and garnished with one of the shoebox-size shop’s proprietary sauces, “toasted cayenne.” This might not be the stuff of Jiro’s dreams, but judging by the packs of famished yoginis regularly storming this location and its new Chelsea Market outpost, the Green Roll, the New York market is ripe for it.
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