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154 Orchard St.,
New York, NY 10002
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F at Delancey St.; J, M, Z at Essex St.
$12-$20
Not Accepted
Michael “Bao” Huynh already operates BarBao, Pho Sure, and proliferating Baoguettes, and the expansionist chef now opens what might be New York’s first Vietnamese beer garden. The subterranean space has been reconfigured into a front takeout counter and a ten-seat dining room and 50-seat garden that you access through a refrigerated walk-in. “Bia” means beer in Vietnamese, and the list here is all Asian, with cans and bottles served in coolers by the six-pack, twelve-pack, or case, and billed by how much is consumed. A circulating pushcart will dispense $5 bites, and the Vietnamese street-food menu is organized by plate size: small (lotus rootlet salad with shrimp and pork), medium (sambal-garlic frog), and big (fish-head hot pot with okra, taro shoots, and pineapple).
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