L at Bedford Ave.
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Hidden in plain sight among the ironic fray of Bedford Avenue lies a bar and restaurant celebrating simpler times when media was exclusive to the printed word. This narrow literary eatery has a long wooden bar, a neat row of tables, and a small library of leather-bound tomes diners can pull off the shelves. The menu's "Table of Contents" offers a tidy assortment of French-American comfort food, a short list of well-crafted cocktails like the Biblio 75 and the Hemingway-inspired Ernesto, and a robust draft-beer list including local favorites like Ommegang Gnomegang and Brooklyn Brewery’s finest. Standout starters include the chilled leek-and-potato soup, chicken liver mousse, and the outstanding smoked cauliflower fritti. Entrées range from the celebrated burger, the superrich macaroni and cheese with bacon and a poached egg, and the next-level Grandma's crispy chicken atop stewed fennel, bacon, potato, and tomato. One note: Skipping an “Appendix” side of fantastic tater tots with whiskey caviar is a mistake as grave as reading the Beat Generation’s greatest hits and forgetting Allen Ginsberg.Recommended Dishes
Tater tots, $8; Smoked cauliflower fritti, $6; Grandma’s crispy chicken, $15