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Should tumbleweeds blow by this spooky, semi-desolate strip of swerving Arthur Kill Road, they’d fit in just fine with Kate’s Wild West appeal. Rusty horseshoes are embedded in the concrete steps leading up to the broad-planked porch of this shotgun-clapboard building. Inside are touches like steer horns over the front door, rosy brocade-design wallpaper, and brass wall sconces worthy of Mae West’s boudoir. While the jukebox plays glam metal or classic rock, and five flat-screen TVs contribute sports-bar appeal, the menu keeps the hee-haw feeling strong, via dishes like Doc’s Rack-o-Ribs—tender baby backs served with moist and mildly sweet corn muffins—and Posole Stew, a New Mexican bowlful of white corn, celery, carrots, and green chilies. Saddle up at the long bar on a Monday or Thursday night for 25-cent wings and properly proportioned margaritas. Just don’t ask for frozen; Kate turns her big nose up at blenders. — Amy Zavatto

The bar stays open late, but if you're hankering for a nosh on weekends, make sure you get your food order in by 11 p.m. (10 p.m. on weekdays), or no wings for you.

Lawman’s sandwich, $7.95; Doc’s Rack-O-Ribs, $10.95-16.95; Kate’s Krab Kakes, $14.95