Sun-Thu, noon-11pm; Fri-Sat, noon-midnight
4, 5, 6 at 59th St.; N, Q, R at Fifth Ave.-59th St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
45th to 65th Sts., First to Fifth Aves.
This venue is closed.
Having been at its current location for decades, Bill Hong's retains a sense of eighties-style decadence. Perhaps it’s the total absence of natural light and the octagonal ceiling cutouts with their hidden fluorescents, but the Cantonese restaurant feels like it could be featured in Scarface or an episode of Miami Vice. Once a destination, it now exudes a sense of retro kitsch, with mirrored walls and a senior waitstaff. They serve the usual array of Chinese staples like chicken with garlic sauce and Buddha's delight (albeit at much higher prices than at most joints), in addition to what the menu calls Old Time Favorites—specialty dishes, many of which combine different kinds of sautéed meat and fish. Waiters theatrically remove metal coverings when the large, family-style entrees are served, as though unveiling culinary masterpieces, but even high-end lobster dishes are not particularly elevated from cheap take-out. It’s never too crowded, especially at lunch, and there’s no background music, so Bill Hong's is not the ideal place to discuss business; instead, patrons often end up (unintentionally) eavesdropping on neighbors' conversations with the ring of cell phones reverberating loudly throughout the large dining room.Recommended Dishes
Steamed Chile bass with spicy black bean sauce, $29; sizzling Chinese steak, $37.50