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Bistro 33 is an exemplar of the cozy chef-owned bistro, a latecomer to Queens. Yet the local demand for Queens native Gary Anza’s inspired French-Japanese fusion cooking is such that he outgrew nearby digs and now oversees this airy corner spot. Bistro 33 is an ideal date destination, promising indoor and outdoor seating, seductive lighting, Billie Holiday and Stan Getz atmospherics, and a something-for-everyone menu covering moules frites, rabbit bahn mi, French onion soup, and full-on mains. Other items that dazzle include etouffee, sunflower-crusted sea bass, and hand-cut fries rendered irresistible with spicy mayo. Even so, life is too short to forego Anza’s house-infused strawberry sake and his bread pudding. Astorians have long felt proud of their neighborhood’s ethnic flavor and diverse dining. Bistro 33 gives them every right to feel smug. — Karen Tina Harrison

On weekends, the prix-fixe brunch ($14) offers entrees like apple pancakes, a Cajun fritatta, an apple tellagio salad, and truffled eggs salmon. The deal includes an eye-opening Tokyo Sunrise cocktail.