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The menu’s tried-and-true staples like steak tartare, trout amandine, and duck magret have been known to incite loyal fans but this French bistro formerly known as Le Taxi — a chic spot in the early nineties — could benefit from a little tune-up of late. The dining room, with its butcher-paper-covered tables, red vinyl booths, and walls hung with vintage French posters now relates a careworn if stylish imprint; and while the grilled filet mignon bordelaise is tender and the scallops St. Jacques are pleasingly pan-seared, the side dishes (like the asparagus spears flooded in hollandaise) can prove subpar as oft as not. — Sarah Gold

Filet Mignon de Beauf Grille Bordelaisem, $27