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With its black-leather banquettes, oak paneling, rustic maplewood floors, and chandeliers sporting tulip-shaped shades, Bistro Citron captures the Left Bank mood. Chef Olivier Jouannard hews closely to the classic bistro playbook of hearty French comfort foods, with numerous stews and roasts, as well as pasta dishes and even a burger. Menu standouts include the lively and fresh steak tartare, ably seasoned with anchovies, chives, garlic, mustard, and Tabasco. It’s served with a raw quail-egg yolk for extra richness. The rack of lamb is also excellent, shellacked with coarse mustard, dipped in chopped pistachios, and roasted until juicy. It comes served over a fragrant, thyme-infused jus and paired with a petite potato cake spiked with cream, turnips, and zucchini chunks. — Michael Anstendig

Steak tartare, $13; carré d’agneau aux pistaches, $27